The finest levada and mountain walks
Rugged coastal cliffs on the São Lourenço peninsula.
Rolf Goetz
Madeira
The finest levada and mountain walks
The first Portuguese word that walkers on Madeira learn, might very well be »levada«. Levada walking is unique in the world. Narrow irrigation channels cover the whole of the island in a cleverly devised network. Without too much change in elevation you can easily discover some of the remotest corners on Madeira along these maintenance paths beside the channels. A good half of the walks in this guide are levada walks. They lead you through fertile farmland with sugar cane, banana trees and vineyards, past terraces skillfully molded into the craggy island topography, awakening associations with Bali or the Philippines. The paths go past cascading waterfalls and gorges, precipitous cliffs and marshy high moors. The subtropical vegetation of laurisilva forests and heathland in the still unspoilt valleys of the north is sometimes so lush, you get the impression of walking through an emerald green tunnel.
With all the fascination of the levada paths you should not forget, however, that this volcanic island is also an excellent area for mountain hikers. The almost 1900m high central massif has walks for everyone. The three summit walk from Arieiro via Torres up to Pico Ruivo seems decidedly alpine. The section spectacularly cut into the rock is considered to be a particularly outstanding walk, and with justification. Together with remote shepherds’ paths and adventurous coastal paths there are the so-called »veredas«, old linking paths which, up to a few decades ago, were the only approach going uphill and down dale to isolated villages. A typical feature is the rounded steps of the cobbled paths which Madeiran people fondly call »ox-foot cobbles«.
Madeira has not been spared by the modern age either and changes in the network of paths can often occur due to new forest paths and roads, the building of houses and last but not least, the ever-changing processes of nature itself. If you find changes on your walks please inform the publishers.
It only remains for me to wish you some invigorating and enjoyable days on the »Atlantic’s Floating Garden«.
Spring 2019
Rolf Goetz
Most of the walks go along clear paths and tracks. However, this should not obscure the fact that some walks demand good physical fitness, sure-footedness and good route-finding skills. Any risks of vertigo will be noted in the individual walk description. You should also be aware that some walks might become more difficult with bad weather.
In order to help you make a better assessment of the grade, each walk is colour-coded as follows:
Easy: These routes are usually comfortably broad and only moderately steep, so that they can be undertaken with relatively little danger, even in poor weather. They can normally be safely undertaken by children and older people.
Moderate: These mountain paths are mainly narrow and can be quite exposed over short sections. They should, therefore, only be undertaken by sure-footed mountain walkers. Some short passages may require good route-finding ability and a good head for heights.
Difficult: These mountain paths and mule tracks are frequently narrow and steep. They can be very stony and there’s sometimes the risk of a landslip. In some cases you may have to scramble, even with the use of your hands. These paths should only be attempted by physically-fit, sure-footed and experienced mountain walkers; good route-finding skills are also required at times. Levada paths may also be very exposed and, if not secured in any way, may require the walker to be absolutely vertigo-free.
For all of the walks in this guide, GPS tracks, as well as coordinates for the starting points, are available for download without charge from the http://www.rother.de
user: gast
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3rd edition E-Book
All of the GPS data was recorded in situ by the author. The publishers and the author have checked the tracks and points en route to the best of their knowledge and ability. Nevertheless, mistakes or deviations are still possible. In addition, conditions on site may have since changed. GPS data is certainly a great help for planning and navigation but still requires meticulous preparation and a certain degree of orientation skill as well as expertise in judging the (geographical) situation at hand. For orientation, one should never depend exclusively on GPS devices or data.
Most of the walks described in this guide can be accessed by public transport. A bus time table with the most useful bus service for walkers is provided on p. 30 and 31. Some starting points must be driven to with a car or by taxi.
The time details refer to real walking time and do not take into account stops and photo opportunities. The total time is usually given.
All walks, apart from a few easy ones along the levadas, require you to wear sturdy walking shoes with good soles. Absolutely essential is gear protecting you from the rain and sun as well as warm clothing for cooler days. A good torch or a head-torch with spare batteries for each walker is also required for passing through the levada tunnels.
Most walks follow clear paths. Special mention is given to areas without paths, sections of climbing or where you need a good head for heights. There might be landslides at heights above 500m and clouds can suddenly form, making many mountain and levada paths temporarily impassable.
Madeira is ideal for walking all year round. The summer months are not all that hot and the winter months are mild with, for Central Europeans, spring-like weather. The period between May and the end of September guarantees the most stable weather conditions with only moderate precipitation on the north side. In winter you should be prepared for cool and rainy weather in the north and in areas above 600m. It can be cold in the central mountains area and there might be occasional snow showers. In contrast, the south side of the island is usually dry and mild, even in winter.
Madeira has an extensive network of paths. On levada walks, the irrigation channel gives you the direction and it is almost impossible to get lost. The island’s government has signposted 28 very popular levada walks and mountain walks in the central massif according to international walking guidelines (PR 1 to PR 23, plus alternative routes). In each case there is a large information board with the route of the path at the start, and the main junctions and crossroads are signposted and marked with distances. However, only a few yellow and red waymarkers are set up along the route itself.
Catered mountain huts or walker’s huts like you find, for example, in the Alps, are non-existent at the moment on Madeira. Several walking routes pass snack bars and restaurants offering food and beverage.
We recommend the walking map »WKP 1 Madeira«, with a scale of 1:30,000 from Freytag & Berndt. Another good one is the locally available »Madeira Tour & Trail Map« (1:40,000) from Discovery Walking Guides. »Madeira – Plants and Flowers« by António da Costa and Luis Franquinho, an illustrated identification guide for those interested in botany, is also offered by local tourist offices and souvenir shops.
Some walks and levada walks are conceived as one-way day walks where the destination is a long way from the starting point. For these walks you are advised to take advantage of public transport (bus, taxi) or to join forces with another walker with a car – here, the best method is to park a car at the destination before starting the walk.
Long-distance walkers can cross the island from Funchal on a multi-day levada trek. The sections Monte – Camacha – Santo da Serra – Portela – Caniçal are fully described in this guide. Allow two or three days for this tour. You can stay overnight in Camacha, Santo da Serra and Caniçal.
Tip: Up-to-date information regarding trails that have been temporarily closed due to landslips, forest fires or construction can be found at http://www.visitmadeira.pt (»Useful Info« and »Notice to walkers and List of Walks«).
Through the Ribeira da Janela valley
This eternally green valley can be explored along numerous levada routes. Delightful views of the terraced area around an estuary open up on the levada trail starting at Lamaceiros (Walk »From Lamaceiros into the Ribeira da Janela gorge«, 3.30 hrs); on the valley flank opposite, the Levada dos Cedros runs through the protected natural heritage site of the laurel forest (Walk 60, 3 hrs).
Ribeiro Frio
The classic amongst levada walks acquaints you with the subtropical laurel forest on Madeira. The luxuriant vegetation amazes even botany enthusiasts. The area is protected as a World Natural Heritage site. (Walk 18, 3.30 hrs).
Levada do Rei
The »King’s levada«, once relatively unknown to walkers, leads below moist rock faces through evergreen laurel forest and penetrates deep into the remote valley of the Ribeira Bonito (Walk 30, 2.30 hrs).
Caldeirão Verde
The wild levada path into the »green cauldron« leads into one of the most primeval regions on Madeira. There are narrow tunnels to walk through, impressive waterfalls cascade down from mountain slopes into the valley. You can also link this route with the adventurous Walk 29 into the Devil’s Cauldron (Walk 28, 3.30 hrs).
Levada da Bica da Cana
This narrow levada, at an altitude of a good 1300m, on the southern slopes of the Paul da Serra plateau, opens up splendid views of the southern coast – but only when cloud cover is not spoiling the view (Walk 47, 2.50 hrs).
Levada das 25 Fontes
Dense forests of tree heathers line this wonderful levada path into the headwater area of Rabaçal. A short diversion (Walk 50) brings you to the most famous waterfall on Madeira (Walk 51, 3.00 hrs).
Pico Ruivo, 1862m
Without a doubt, the most spectacular walking tour on the island; this superlative high mountain path connects Madeira’s highest peaks, one with the other. An alpine path leads along steps cut into the rock faces: thus, you must be physically fit for this climb (Walk 34, 5.30 hrs).
If you prefer it not quite so steep, you can climb this island »rooftop« starting at the Achada do Teixeira for a shorter walk (Walk 33, 2,00 hrs).
Pico Grande, 1654m
»Grand peak« is the name of the huge mountain massif that stands unpretentiously in the centre of the »Flower Island«. An airy path with beautiful views and a demanding ascent brings you onto one of the most beautiful mountains on Madeira. If you prefer to avoid the easy scrambling section, follow the spectacular high mountain path only as far as the »Donkey Pass« (Walk 38, 4.00 hrs).
Ponta do Pargo
After walking a good hour along the fern-flanked levada, this circular walk passes through several remote hamlets.Short detours lead to two viewpoints taking in the rugged western coast dropping steeply to the sea (Walk 57, 3.50 hrs).
Paul do Mar
This lengthy walk on the western island begins with a spectacular descent through the coastal cliffs and then follows the seaside promenade at Paul do Mar, where you can find a bar to brace yourself for the ascent back up again (Walk 56, 5.40 hrs).
São Lourenço peninsula
The very popular walk through this bizarre nature reserve in the far east of Madeira is famous for its coastal views – sheer capes in warm red and ochre tones of colour. From a panoramic summit you can see as far as the neighbouring island of Porto Santo in the distance (Walk 12, 3.00 hrs).
Porto da Cruz
Ascend at first via a levada to the »dangerous opening«; however, the precipitous mule track which follows, leading high above the steep coastline, is only recommended for vertigo-free and sure-footed walkers (Walk 14, 3.45 hrs).
Fajã Quebrada Nova
The descent to the »seaside gardens« on the north-west coast is simply breath-taking; taking the cable car up to avoid the ascent is also an experience that you will never forget (Walk 58, 1.40 hrs).
