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Contents

Cover

About the Book

About the Author and Translator

Also by Geert Mak

Praise

List of Illustrations

Maps:

Amsterdam c. 1300

Amsterdam c. 1575

Amsterdam c. 1650

Amsterdam c. 1980

Title Page

Prologue

1. The Beautifully Constructed House

2. Bread and Stones

3. The Enemy

4. Towards a New Jerusalem

5. The Joy of God’s Wrath

6. Insiders and Outsiders

7. The Ice Age Explained

8. The Fire Palace

9. The Last Stop of Train 11537

10. The Years of Moral Panic

Notes

Bibliography

Index of Proper Names

Index of Places

Copyright

About the Book

A delightful journey through time and through the streets of one of the greatest cultural capitals in Europe.

A magnet for trade and travellers from all over the world, stylish, cosmopolitan Amsterdam is a city of dreams and nightmares, of grand civic architecture and legendary beauty, but also of civil wars, bloody religious purges, and the tragedy of Anne Frank. In this fascinating examination of the city’s soul, part history, part travel guide, Geert Mak imaginatively recreates the lives of the early Amsterdammers, and traces Amsterdam’s progress from waterlogged settlement to a major financial centre and thriving modern metropolis.

About the Author & Translator

Geert Mak is a journalist and historian, and one of Holland’s bestselling writers; his prizewinning books include Amsterdam and Jorwerd.

Philip Blom was born in Hamburg in 1970 and now works in London as a journalist, novelist and translator.

ALSO BY GEERT MAK

An Island in Time: The Biography of a Village

In Europe: Travels Through the Twentieth Century

The Bridge: A Journey Between Orient and Occident

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Praise

‘Mak’s use of pertinent anecdotes not only makes the book highly readable, but it puts the scent of the city in your nostrils and taste of it in your mouth. For anybody who wants to get a broader perspective of a town which allows us to air our prejudices and neatly splits us all into hedonists or controls freaks, liberals or conservatives, this excellent book is more than essential’

Irvine Welsh, Herald

‘Mak’s brief is . . . to bring Amsterdam into the modern age. This he does with wit and style. But his real achievement is to make accessible unfussily – and unsentimentally – one of Europe’s most astonishing urban success stories’

James Woodall, Financial Times

‘Lovers of Amsterdam will revel in the exhaustive reconstruction of everyday life in the medieval city’

Lilian Pizzichini, Independent on Sunday

‘For those who wish truly to understand the structure, human and material, of one of Europe’s great cities, Amsterdam may become a classic’

John Ure, Geographical

‘Magnificent. One of the most readable, most surprising historical works ever written’

Het Parool, Amsterdam

‘An extraordinarily powerful book. Do you want stories? Read it. Do you want the history of ordinary men and women? Read it. Do you want to learn to love Amsterdam? Read it’

Geert Van Istendael, Vrij Nederland

Prologue

Amsterdam is a city, but it is also a country by itself, a small nation inside a larger one. Moreover, it is a city that spreads out progressively across the country. For a first impression it is best, as always, to drop in on the neighbours for a cup of coffee. Foreigners are often more interested in us Amsterdammers than we are in ourselves, decent and modest as we are.

Outsiders find themselves astonished by all sorts of things, too numerous to mention in detail. Certain observations, however, recur so often that something about them is bound to be true. Our political debate is as exciting as a wet sponge. Our culture of compromise – once a bitter necessity in order for us to be able to survive the next flood together – is now so refined that the concept of “feasibility” has begun to determine our entire way of thinking. Our avarice is legendary: the correspondent of Le Monde, Christian Chartier, has observed that former Prime Minister Lubbers spoke about an “investment in the future” even during a debate about the Gulf War of 1991. Our spatial planning and drive for order are phenomenal. Our toleration and flexibility allow us to adapt to each new style that comes blowing across the border. The precocity of this region astonishes everyone: although it is a precocity which may also be called “guidebook effect” or “cosmopolitan trendiness”, or defined as a “magpie culture”. Levi’s sends its trend scouts around the city at least once a year to find out what the women are wearing now; the music shops have all kinds of CDs and records which are not yet available anywhere else; McDonald’s first tried out its vegetarian hamburgers in the Low Countries. As to business in Amsterdam, it is conducted in a pleasant sort of anarchism, a yielding order, a sober chaos.

In other words, we have a suburban culture which knows few conventions, something which, according to some foreign commentators, has everything to do with the fact that Amsterdam (with the exception of the German occupation from 1940 to 1945) has never been ripped to shreds, never suppressed, that it has never stood in the surf, that it has never really known great difficulties.

For centuries Amsterdam – like the rest of the Netherlands – has been relatively safe. Yet its situation on the periphery of the great European trouble spots has led to what is, in the eyes of our neighbours, our most remarkable characteristic: complaining. The Dutch are not especially proud of their country, and this is doubly true for the Amsterdammers, whose lack of patriotism borders on the awful. The intense, aggressive nationalism of other countries is visible here only in the soccer stadiums. If Dutch people are nationalistic outside them, they are defensively so, in protection of their heritage and security – if they are not preaching, that is. The Dutch and the Americans (who have a considerable Dutch heritage) make the best religious ministers in the world.

All this, however, has nothing to do with our proverbial soberness. For centuries the Dutch have simply had no need for nationalism. They have come to take their achievements for granted; moreover, most of the miracles of their country are negative ones. Their greatest pride is perhaps that certain things did not happen: no appalling poverty; no large-scale racial unrest; no terrorism; and even the sea has not flooded the country for many years. Their aspirations beyond that are not very high. What more does a Dutchman want than, in the words of the retired civil servant Pieter Bas (the famous protagonist of a novel by Godfried Bomans), “freedom, old age, money, honour, fame, a dear wife, a lot of children, health, and my own little garden with a fence around it”?

One day, quite by chance, I saw our sovereign at the official departure, after a state visit, of the President of India, one of the largest nations in the world. It was a grey, rainy Amsterdam morning, a military band was playing, and only a handful of elderly people and truant youngsters turned out to watch this, an occasion for which any ordinary country would have drummed up a fleet of Jaguars, Cadillacs, or Mercedes stretch limousines. Instead, the convoy consisted of about ten modest-looking Fords and a little bus from a local tour operator.

The myth of Amsterdam is a myth of the spirit, where that of other European cities is, especially, one of monumentality. Many cities are distinguished by their engineering and their architecture, by a style of building that transforms the citizen into a subject. Monuments are the foremost carriers of a city’s mythology, or, more precisely, of the mythology a city wishes for itself. The American city sociologist Donald Olsen once wrote: “A monument is meant to intimidate or to kindle admiration: to remind the onlooker of the age of the dynasty, the power of the regime, the wealth of the community, the truth of its ideology, or of a military victory, a successful revolution, which propagated such wealth, power and truth.” Inwardness, he added, was in this context to be regarded as fundamentally wrong. “If a monument is to succeed in its aim, it has to be able to wrench the individual out of his daily life, away from the half-past six train which he has to catch, the driving licence he has to renew, the stamps he has to buy; it has to remind him that life contains more than these worries, that he may count himself lucky to be inhabiting such a glorious metropolis, to be subject to such a benevolent ruler and adherent to the one true faith.”1

This is the song sung by every monumental building, the language spoken by the nineteenth-century villa suburb. Regent Street, Place de la Concorde, Stalin’s Moscow skyscrapers, all make it clear that art and architecture are not merely concerned with themselves but with objects beyond them: politics, ideas, ethics, emotion, avarice, craft, institutions, history. In this way, the modern counterparts of the medieval city came into existence, places that fight chaos, no longer with walls and gates, but with a fantastical tissue of architectural construction. They are purely technical cities, suggesting unity in a fractured world, and clarity in a time longing for authority. Amsterdam, too, knows these bulwarks of technology, at least on its periphery.

Even so, Amsterdam is still an exception in this respect, for it is almost an anti-monument turned flesh. The city tried once to express its wealth and its power in a building, but that was bargained away to the royal court in the Hague. The architecture of prestige has largely passed Amsterdam by, apart from the Rijksmuseum and the Palace of People’s Industry, although the latter burned to the ground in 1929. In the late twentieth century, the combination of Town Hall and opera house resulted in a massive, cumbersome building – the Stopera – born out of thriftiness and with all the grandeur of an Ikea chair. The modern business district, which lacks the least display of planning vision, is hidden away on the south-eastern outskirts of the city.

For some reason, monumental buildings do not work in Amsterdam. Whether such buildings are the result of the plan to lure the Olympic Games to the city, or of the plan to make the banks of the IJ (an arm of the IJsselmeer) something that would be noticed abroad, or of the town-hall-and-opera idea which brought about the Stopera, the city’s answer is nothing but mockery and sniggering. The monumentality of Amsterdam exists only in the heads of its inhabitants, not on the streets.

Amsterdam is not proud; indeed, it is even unproud in a proud sort of way. The wealthiest Amsterdammers have clung stubbornly to the sobriety of their seventeenth-century forefathers, with the result that a cityscape has emerged untouched by the grandeur of absolutism, and uncut by the broad avenues which might have been driven through the city in the nineteenth century. Even the proud Amsterdam of the Golden Age was, in its time and according to the norms of the day, the very anti-image of a modern city: traditional in outlook, oriented towards individual citizens rather than a powerful aristocracy. Its wealth has always been quiet and discreet. There is a direct line from the eighteenth-century Widow Pels on the Herengracht, who, although the richest inhabitant of the Amsterdam of her day, employed no more than five servants, to the senior manager from the city who recently asked in a weekly magazine whether the KLM airline could not tone down the service in its Business Class a little: “A cheese sandwich and a glass of milk are more than enough as far as I am concerned.”

The explanation for the modesty of this civic pride lies in the simple fact that Amsterdam has already existed for a very long time as a city state, and the quiet self-assurance our medium-sized European city derives from this fact is not to be underestimated. Amsterdammers, in other words, have for centuries felt no need of boastful tombs, palaces, statues, avenues.

The citizens of Amsterdam do not put on airs – which is one myth the Amsterdammers themselves believe. There has never been a royal court here to serve as a point of reference for the settled bourgeoisie, neither has there ever been an absolute monarch able to force through radical changes of the old structure, and with the power and the means to build on a truly monumental scale. Furthermore, the richest Amsterdam merchants were imbued with the conviction that money was, first and foremost, capital for business and the family, a basis for future generations to build upon, an idea considerably less important to the nobility in other countries, since they always had their lands to fall back on. Thus the culture that emerged in Amsterdam was one in which possessions were held to be more important than honour and where money usually counted for more than fashion, morality, social origin, and prestige, with all the advantages and disadvantages that this mentality brought. The lack of pride of modern Amsterdammers goes further, however. It is not only a character trait, it is a social norm. There is an unspoken ban on displaying high spirits, and the mowing machine is always on stand-by to chop off any heads that are raised above the parapet.

Commentators usually point to the old republican tradition of the city which, as early as 1581, permitted Amsterdam to abjure its prince. There seems to be rather more to it than that, however. We must not forget that for many centuries large parts of the Netherlands have been prey to catastrophes and near-catastrophes. It is a cliché, but none the less true, that people have worked their hearts out in this country in an effort of epic proportions to keep the place above water. This has given the Dutch, and therefore also the Amsterdammers, a natural feeling of ownership: the land was, literally, theirs. At the same time, however, there came about a curious coagulation of power relations, a culture of consensus and compromise which softened and eventually concealed even the fiercest generational conflicts. And yet every now and then, throughout history, the crowd broke through the fences, the quiet disturbed by a day of unheard-of rampaging and hysteria. Afterwards, however, the spiritual order was restored, and once more life carried on calmly and soberly.

List of Illustrations

See here: Fourteenth-century tin figure of a knight mounted on a horse. Photo by W Krook, Afdeling Archeaologie, dienst Amsterdam Beheer, courtesy of the Archeological Depot Amsterdam.

See here and see here: Cornelius Anthoniszoon (1507–61), Birds-eye view of Amsterdam (1534). Courtesy of Amsterdams Historisch Museum.

See here: Dirck Jacobszoon, Amsterdam merchant couple, probably Egbert Gerbrandszoon, Burgomaster of Amsterdam, and his wife (1541). Courtesy of Amsterdams Historisch Museum.

See here: Artist unknown, The Schreierstoren, drawing, seventeenth century. Courtesy of the Municipal Archives (Gemeentearchief), Amsterdam.

See here: Artist unknown, The City of Amsterdam, 1611, detail. Courtesy of the Municipal Archives (Gemeentearchief), Amsterdam.

See here: Rembrandt van Rijn (1606–69), Elsje Christiaens hanging on the gibbet (c. 1664), pen and wash with bistre. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, H.O. Havemeyer Collection, bequest of Mrs H. O. Havemeyer, 1929.

See here: Johannes Lingelbach (1624–74), Dam square with new Town Hall under construction (1656). Courtesy of Amsterdams Historisch Museum.

See here: Gerrit Adriaensz Berckheijde (1638–98), Dam square with new Town Hall (1673). Courtesy of the Amsterdams Historisch Museum.

See here and see here: Artist unknown, Amsterdam as seen from the IJ, engraving, seventeenth century. Courtesy of the Municipal Archives (Gemeentearchief), Amsterdam.

See here: H. J. Baden, Interior of the Nieuwezijdskapel during a service.

See here: Job Berckheyde (1630–93), The Inner Courtyard of the Stock Exchange after Renovation (1668). Courtesy of the Amsterdams Historisch Museum.

See here: Adriaan Artmann, River Scene, drawing (1755). Courtesy of the Municipal Archives (Gemeentearchief), Amsterdam.

See here: Hendrick Dubbels (c. 1621–76), The Amstel River in Winter with Blockhouses (c. 1650). Courtesy of the Amsterdams Historisch Museum.

See here: Hendrick Cornelis Vroom (1566–1640), The IJ (1608). Courtesy of the Amsterdams Historisch Museum.

See here: Jacob Marrell, Four Tulips and an Anemone (c. 1640). Courtesy of the Riksmuseum-Stichting, Amsterdam.

See here: Hermanus Petrus Schouten, The Portuguese Synagogue (1770). Courtesy of the Municipal Archives (Gemeentearchief), Amsterdam.

See here: Artist unknown, The Tuchthuis (House of Correction), engraving, seventeenth century Courtesy of the Municipal Archives (Gemeentearchief), Amsterdam.

See here: W Streelink, The Pachtersoproer (Leaseholders’ Uprising), drawing, 1777. Courtesy of the Municipal Archives (Gemeentearchief), Amsterdam.

See here: Artist unknown, A Demonstration of Electricity in the Felix Meritis, drawing (c. 1870). Courtesy of the Municipal Archives (Gemeentearchief), Amsterdam.

See here: Gerrit Lamberts, The Gallow Fields, drawing, 1795. Courtesy of the Municipal Archives (Gemeentearchief), Amsterdam.

See here: Photographer unknown, View of the Poleis van Volksvlijt, (undated). Courtesy of the Municipal Archives (Gemeentearchief), Amsterdam.

See here: Artist unknown, Panorama of Amsterdam from the Oosterkerk, (c. 1870). Courtesy of the Municipal Archives (Gemeentearchief), Amsterdam.

See here: Photographer unknown, The Uilenburgstraat (c. 1900). Courtesy of the Municipal Archives (Gemeentearchief), Amsterdam.

See here: W Streelink, The Palingoproer, (Eel Uprising), etching, 1886. Courtesy of the Municipal Archives (Gemeentearchief), Amsterdam.

See here: Photographer unknown, An Amsterdam Street, (c. 1910). Courtesy of the Municipal Archives (Gemeentearchief), Amsterdam.

See here: Photographer unknown, The New American Hotel (c. 1910). Courtesy of the Municipal Archives (Gemeentearchief), Amsterdam.

See here: Photographer unknown, View of the back of houses on the Warmoesstraat (c. 1920). Courtesy of the Municipal Archives (Gemeentearchief), Amsterdam.

See here: Emmy Andriesse, Small child during the Hunger Winter, 1945. Courtesy of Prentenkabinet van de Universiteit, Leiden.

See here: Photographer unknown, Dancing Couples in front of a Gracht with Street Organ, 1945. Courtesy of the Municipal Archives (Gemeentearchief), Amsterdam.

See here: Cor Jaring, Burning Lievertje, 1965. © Cor Jaring.

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Map Missing

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Index of Proper Names

The page references in this index correspond to the printed edition from which this ebook was created. To find a specific word or phrase from the index, please use the search feature of your ebook reader.

Adams, John 183, 185

Aemstel, Egbert van 12

Gijsbreght II van 12

Gijsbreght III van 20

Gijsbreght IV van 13, 18, 22

Jan van 13, 18

Wolfgerus van 12

Aertsz, Pieter 40

Aglionby, William 121

Aken, Klaas Pieterszoon van 67–8

Albrecht, Count of Holland 32

Alva, Duke of 81, 84

Amices, Edmondo de 208

Amsburg, Claus von 293

Anthoniszoon, Cornelis 53–4

Arents, Aagje 62

Asscher, Abraham 245

Atterbag, King 32

Avesnes, Gwijde van 19, 30

Baart, Jan 15, 25, 26, 32

Baille, Pierre 127

Banningh Cocq, Frans 116, 129

Barentsz, Willem 117

Barlaeus 138

Bartels, Flip 228

Bartolotti van den Heuvel, Jacoba 134, 137

Bast, Pieter 93

Beatrix, Crown Princess (later Queen) 293, 295

Beets, Nicolaas 196

Bempten, Gillis van 168–9

Benthuyzen, Joriaen 62

Berlage, Hendrik Petrus 220, 233, 237–8, 239, 244, 299

Bernhard, Prince 244

Beukelszoon, Jan 65

Beuningen, Coenraad van 122, 134–5, 136, 137, 138, 141, 150

Bicker, Andries 116, 123

Cornelis 116, 123, 124

Hendrick 168

Jacob 123

Jan 123

Bicker Raye, Jacob 142, 148–50, 153, 156–8, 163, 165–6, 168, 172, 173, 175, 176, 177, 178, 179, 181, 182

Bilderdijk, Willem 196

Blaeu, Jan 115, 117–18, 128

Blockzijl, Max 249

Boekman, Emanuel 251

Boer, Feike de 277

Böhl, Herman de Liagre 282

Boissevain, Walrave 241, 246, 247

Bomans, J. 245

Bonaparte, Louis Napoleon 188, 192

Bonger, Professor 251

Borrie, G.W B. 245, 246

Borssom, Antonie van 115

Braatbard, Chaim 175

Braudel, Fernand 24, 56

Bredero, Gerbrand Adriaenszoon 92, 105

Brederode, Hendrik van 84

Broekhoff, K. H. 278, 280–1

Bronckhorst, Vincent van 115, 116, 126, 128

Brugman, Johannes 47

Brugmans, H. 75, 147

Brunt, Renyer 78

Burch, Jan van den 58

Burg, Coenraad 115, 128

Calvin, John 75

Campen, Jacob van 104, 108

Capelle, Rochus van de 128

Casanova, G. G. 162

Charles IV, Holy Roman Emperor 46

Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor 46, 53, 61, 64, 79

Charles II, King of England 137

Christiaens, Elsje 97–9, 105, 114–15, 118, 125–6, 127, 132

Cornelis, Meyns 48–53

Corver, Gerrit 177–8

Cosman, Joel 254–5

Coster, Charles de 204

Cruijff, Johan 237

Cuypers, P. J. H. 207

Da Costa 196

Daignan, Guillaume 172

Davids, Catryn (“The Northern Cat”) 163

Deken, Aagje 153

Dekker, Maurits 225

Derk, Joan 185

Descartes, René 100, 108

Dijkhuis, Henk 232

Dionysius the Carthusian 47

Dirckszoon Bardes, William 78

Dircszoon, Reyer 34

Dircx, Geertje 129, 130, 131

Dirkszoon, Albert 62

Domela Nieuwenhuis, Ferdinand 216, 225, 233

Doorn, Johnny van (“Johnny the Selfkicker”) 289

Dord, Pieter van (“The Burgomaster”) 175–6

Douwes Dekker, Eduard (“Multatuli”) 195, 200, 210, 233

Drongelen, Wouter van 18

du Jardin, Card 99

Duijn, Roel van 297

Dusard, Johan 148

Eeghen, Isabella van 97

Eesteren, Cornelis van 239, 240

Eggert, William 37

Eichman, Adolf 267

Ekker, A. 248, 249

Engels, Friedrich 198

Eugenius, Prince of Savoy 162

Eyck, Aldo van 301

Fagel, Hendrik 177

Falck, Arie 182, 193–4

Flinck, Govert 99, 128, 129, 132

Floris V, Count of Holland 15, 18

Frank, Anne 260, 267

Frederick III, Emperor 54

Frederick Hendrick, Prince 122–3, 124

Frederick Hendrik, Prince 203

Frederick William II, King of Prussia 186

Geel, Jan van 68

Geelvinck, Nicolaas 172

Geerke, Johan 217, 218

Gelder, Nelis de (“Hadjememaar”) 229–30

Gerbrandszoon, Egbert 41, 61, 95, 170

Gerhard, H. 216

Gödecke, Christain 198

Goedbeleid, Hendrik 67–8

Goessens, Jan 62

Goncourt, E. and J. de 192

Gouw,Ter 231

Graaf, Dirck Janszoon 111

Graaf, W.A. de 246, 247

Graeff, Andries de 114, 116, 123, 129

Grootveld, Robert Jasper 289, 291

Haan, Lady de 148

“Hadjememaar” see Gelder, Nelis de

Hall, Anne Maurits van 196–7, 220, 271

Attie van 270, 272, 273

Floris van 196–7

Floris Adriaan van 197, 220, 226

Gijs van 271–3, 279, 287, 292–3, 294, 296

Johanna (Hanna) van 197, 220

Maurits (I) van 194, 196, 197

Maurits (II) van 197, 220, 226, 271

Suze van 196–7, 220, 271

Walraven (Wallie) van 270–3, 275, 277, 279, 280

Hanke, Karl 198

Heel, S. A. C. Dudok van 126

Heijden, Jan van der 108

Helling, Captain 55, 87

Hendricx, Annetje (“Anna in the Stall”) 163

Henry, Prince of Wales 121

Herbert, Zbigniew 75

Hertzberger, Herman 301

Hillegaersberch, William van 45

Hilmers, Hendrik 186

Hinlopen, Jan Jacobszoon 129

Hoekert, Kees 295

Holst, Henriette Ronald 225

Hondecoeter, Melchior 175

Hooft, Hester 162

Hoogh, Pieter de 99, 192

Hoornik, Ed 249

Houbraken, Arnoldus 113, 119, 128, 130

Houtman, Cornelis 116

Hubrechtszoon, Jan 78

Huges, Bart 289

Huizinga, Johan 42, 47, 63

Huten, Gaspard van 103

Huydecooper, Jan 129

Huygens, Constantijn 135

Ijsbrants, Jan 62

Ireland, Samuel 168

Jacobs, Eduard 221

Jacobszoon, Dirck 41

Jacobszoon, Laurens 76, 77

Jacobszoon, Wouter 70–4, 76, 84, 85, 86–9, 91

Jans, Aagje 66

Jans, Anne 51

Jansdochter, Cornelia 130

Janszoon, Broer 103

Janszoon Peggedochter, Gerrit 41, 48, 61, 95, 170

“Johnny the Selfkicker” see Doorn, Johnny van

Jones, Paul 183

Jong, Lou de 272, 280

Juliana, Princess (later Queen) 244, 295

Kaal, Frederik 184–5

Kaasjager, H. A. J. G. 286–7

Kampen, Jacob van 68

Karl, Duke of Gelre 59

Keppler, Arie 237

Keyser, Hendrick de 108, 144

Keyser, Pieter 116

Klaassen, Adriaan 49

Klaaszoon, Jacob 62

Kok, Hans 305

Kraan, William 256

Krayenhoff, Doctor 187

Kuyper, Abraham 221, 224

Lambrecht the Baker 26

Lammers, Griet 158

Lammers, Han 301

Lanzmann, Claude 264, 266

Lastman, Pieter 109, 110

Laurens, Catalyn (“Sweetie Cunt”) 163

Lee, William 183

Leeuw, Mozes de 234

Lennep, Jacob de Neufville van 142

Levi, Primo 268

Lingnebach, Johannes 99

Locke, John 108

Loon, Nicolaas van 115, 128

Louis XIV, King of France 135, 136

Lublink, Christoffel 174

Luther, Martin 52, 61, 62

Mamadouh, Virginie 306

Marken, Jacob van 49

Marquette, Lady de 149

Marx, Karl 198, 216

Mattos, Texeira de 142

Maurik, Justus van 190, 191, 198, 206–7

Maximilian I, Holy Roman Emperor 45, 46, 54, 57, 58, 59, 60

Maximilian of Austria see Maximilian I, Holy Roman Emperor

May, Job 193

Méchoulan, Henri 107–8, 139

Medici, Marie de’ 121

Meershoek, Guus 282

Mens, Ko (“Bokkebek”) 217

Menzel,Maarten 300

Metsu, Gabriel 99

Meulenbelt, Anja 297

Miranda, Bram 246, 247

Salomon (“Monne”) de 237, 238, 241, 243, 245–7, 257, 308

Moryson, Fynes 89

Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus 149

“Multatuli” see Douwes Dekker, Eduard

Mundy, Peter 109

Nak, Piet 256

Nassau, Jan van 22

Neufville, Jean 183

Leendert Pieter de 166

Nieuwenboer, D. 219

Nieuwendijk, Mat van den 175

Obisy, Anthony 127

Oldenbarneveldt, Jan van 122

Ottens,Wijntje 82, 84

Overhoff, C. F. 277

Philip, Duke of Burgundy 56, 57

Philip II, King of Spain 71, 79, 80, 81, 83, 84, 91, 181

Philip IV, King of Spain 123, 135

Pieters, Griet 51

Pieters, Lijsbeth and Jennetje 51

Pieterszoon, Pieter 83

Plancius, Peter 116

Polak, Henri 232–3

Polak,Wim 304

Post, Johannes 279

Potter, Paulus 109

Pieter 109

Presser, Jacques 234, 259, 261, 262, 269

Raap, Daniel 172, 173, 177, 178–9

Randwijk, Henk van 268

Reael, Laurens Jacobszoon 84, 95

Laurens Laurenszoon 95, 109, 153

Regnard, Jean François 162

Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn 97, 109–10, 112–14, 116, 119–20, 123, 126, 127, 128–33, 138, 143, 145

Reyerszoon, Simon 34

Riethof, Huib 302

Rip, Jan Corver 168

Ris, Klaas 200

Roegholt, Richter 242, 252

Roel, Jacob 48

Sade, Marquis de 156

Sajet, Ben 252

Samkalden, Ivo 296

Sarphati, Samuel 201–4

Schaefer, Jan 303

Schama, Simon 163

Schimmelpenninck, Luud 294, 295

Schimmelpenninck, Rutger Jan 187

Schreuder, W H. 277, 278

Schwartz, Gary 110, 128

Sijes, Ben 253, 257

Simon, Master 49

Simons, Menno 68

Simonszoon, Tideman 57

Six, Jan 110, 116, 128, 131, 168

Sjakoo (Shako) 157–8, 198

Slater, Philip 288

Soetendorp, Jacob 234

Sophie, Queen 198

Spieghel, Dirck 115, 128

Spinoza, Baruch de 108

Staets, Hendrick Jacobszoon 112

Stalpaert, Daniel 108

Standent, Jan 163

Steen, Jan 29, 145

Stoffels, Hendrickje 99, 114, 129, 130, 131, 133, 144

Stolk, Rob 288, 289, 291

Strijen, Nicolaas van 148

Stuyvesant, Peter 117

Swammerdam, Jan 108

Sweelinck, Jan Pieterszoon 108

Tak, P. L. 214, 233

Taverne, Ed 111, 112

Thijn, Ed van 262, 305

Thijsse, Jacob P. 233

Traese, Madame 162

Treub, William 214, 215, 223

Trip family 110, 116, 132

Tulp, Nicolaes 116, 129, 144

Uylenburg, Hendrick 110, 119, 129, 141

Saskiavan 110, 113, 114, 119, 128, 129, 130, 132

Uytenbogaert, Joannus 110

Veen, Gerrit van der 273, 279

Veer, Hendrick de 157

Vega, Manuel Rodrigues de 127

Verhulst, Rombout 144

Vermeer, Jan 29, 141, 145

Vingboons, Philip 144

Vinkeles, Reiner 148

Visscher, Roemer 93–4

Vlissingen, Paul van 195, 235

Vlugt, William de 237, 257

Voltaire (François-Marie Arouet) 180

Vondel, Joost van den 13, 15, 99, 144, 170

Voort, Cornelis van der 95, 109

Vos, Cataleyne de 93

Wagenaar, Gerben 272, 277

Wagenaar, Jan 9, 48, 65, 125

Wallenstein, Immanuel 121

Weber, Carl von 203

Weggelaar, Jan 296

Wibaut, F. M. 224–5, 233, 236, 237, 240–1, 245–6, 308

Wichman, Erich 230

Wijk, Hein van 249

Wijnkoop, David 225, 233

Wilhelmina, Princess 186, 194

Willems, Grietje 51

Willemszoon, Cornelis 49

William III, Count of Holland 18, 30

William IV, Count of Holland 32

William, Count of Nassau 124

William I, King of Orange 194

William III, King of Orange 198, 202, 216

William of Nassau, Prince of Orange 76, 84

William II, Prince of Orange 122–3, 124

William III, Prince of Orange 135, 136, 137

William IV, Prince of Orange 176, 177–8

William V, Prince of Orange 176, 185, 186, 187, 194

Wolfert 9

Wolff, Bertje 153

Wolff, Sam de 233

Wouwerman, Flip 175

Zesen, Philip von 102

Zola, Émile 233

Zuurbier, Bertus 230

Zwingli, Ulrich 63

Zwol, Hildebrand van 62

Index of Places

The page references in this index correspond to the printed edition from which this ebook was created. To find a specific word or phrase from the index, please use the search feature of your ebook reader.

Admiralty 108

Aemstel castle 15, 18, 38

Amboplein 243

Amestelle 11–12

Amstel 8–11, 14, 16, 17, 20, 22, 25, 27, 36, 37, 57 60, 73, 86, 94, 105, 138, 146, 150, 154, 156, 166, 185, 187, 202, 204, 286

Station 165, 267

Amsteldijk 213

Amstelveen 109

Amstelveenseweg 220

Amsterdam Athenaeum Illustre 138, 220

see also University of Amsterdam

Amsterdam Historical Museum 40, 53, 92

Amsterdam Noord (North) 243

Amsterdam Oost (East) 243, 263

Amsterdam Oud-Zuid 210

Amsterdam Zuid (South) 109, 234, 244, 263

Amsterdam-Rhine Canal 206, 285, 308

Amsterdamse Bos 240

Anjelierstraat 133

Anne Frank House 294

Artis Zoo 107

Barnde canal 133

Bartolotti Huis 108

Beemstermeer 11, 146

Beethovenstraat 244

Bellamystraat 210

Berlagebrug 251

Bethaniënstraat 44

Beurs 108

Beurs van Berlage (Stock Exchange) 215, 220, 221

Bickers Island 123

Bijlmer 298–300, 301, 302, 308

Bijlmermeer 11, 288, 300

Bilderdijkstraat 304

Binnengasthuis 73, 167, 255

Binnengasthuisterrein 38

Binnenkant 213

Blauwbrug 255

Blauwburgwal 250

Blauwhodenveem 224

Bloedstraat 44

Bloemendaal 109

Bloemgracht 110

Bloemstraat 133

“Bloodstained House” 134

Boomstraat 217, 218

Bos 240, 244, 286

Bosplaan 250

Botermarkt (Butter Market) 138, 149, 173

see also Rembrandtplein

Breestraat 109, 113, 119, 130, 131

see also Jodenbreestraat

Brink 237

Buiksloot 237

Buitengasthuis 167

Buitenkant 100, 164

Buitensingel 146

see also Stadhouderskade

Buitenveldert 109, 240

Burgwal 94

Butter Market see Botermarkt

Central Station 21, 27, 35, 66, 101, 200, 206, 207, 208, 224, 248, 262, 265, 286, 300, 301

Churchilllaan 235

City Exchange Bank 102–3

Cliostraat 250

Concertgebouw 200, 210, 245

Corn Exchange 102

Dam 13, 36–9, 42, 46, 50, 51, 55, 56, 65–9, 74, 84, 87, 94, 97, 99, 102, 103, 143, 145, 148, 168, 185, 188, 191, 194–5, 198, 200, 221, 279, 295, 296

see also Plaetse; Waag (on the Dam)

Damrak 27, 35, 43, 55, 56, 74, 76, 89, 98, 101, 102, 176, 178, 191, 204, 208, 220

Damstraat 30, 77, 109

Daniel Meijerplein 109

Dapper 210

Dapperbuurt 300

De Rijp 31

Diemen 11, 85

Diemerdijk 59

Diemermeer 73

Dirk van Hasseltway 14

Doelen 65

Doelenburg 13

Droogbak 205

Dutch Maritime Museum 108

Duvelshoek 231

Eerste Constantijn Huygensstraat 304

Elandsgracht 157, 198, 266, 300

Entrepotdok 195

Fantasia 297

Ferdinand Bolstraat 202

Fort Sint-Eustatius 183

Franse Pad 164 231

see also Willemsstraat

Frederiksplein 202, 204, 227

Garnalendoelen 149, 168

Gebed zonder End 44

Gein 146

Gekroonde Naarheid 164

Geldersekade 36, 59, 93, 286, 287

Geuzenveld 240, 257, 286

Goudsbloemgracht 208

see also Willemsstraat

Grimburgwal 38

Grote Club 246, 279

Haarlemmerdijk 11, 74, 158, 231

Haarlemmermeer 11, 236

Haarlemmerplein 149

Haarlemmerpoort 81, 87, 231

Haarlemmerstraat 117, 162

Haarlemmertrekvaart 146

Halsteeg 77, 78

Haringpakkerstoren 66

Hartenstraat 148

Heiligeweg 45, 223

Herengracht 7, 94, 106, 107, 108, 110, 134, 148, 150, 155, 164, 220, 250, 304

Herenmarkt 106

Hirschgebouw 289

Hoedemakerspad 150

Hoge Sluis 154, 156, 187

Hollandsche Schouwburg 262

Holy Place 45, 50, 60, 61, 69, 73

Hoogstraat 164

Huis ter Hart 73

Huis van Bewaring 280

Huis van Mirakelen 164

IJ 7, 9, 11, 14, 35–6, 43, 54, 56, 58, 59, 94, 99, 101, 123, 124, 134, 148, 150, 156, 166, 192, 193, 195, 206, 207, 235, 257, 309

tunnel 244, 288, 300, 301

Ijmuiden 235, 250

Jan Lykenstraat 304

Jodenbreestraat 99, 109, 160, 232, 274, 284, 301

see also Breestraat; Sint Antonisdijk

Jonas Daniel Meijerplein 231

Joodsde Invalide 244, 263

Jordaan 51, 106, 110, 112, 132, 164, 182, 191, 216, 217, 224, 230, 231, 232, 243, 254, 255, 275, 298, 300, 307, 308

Kalverstraat 17, 25, 38, 42, 43, 44, 45, 56, 94, 131, 150, 155, 197, 204, 221, 223, 231

Karseboom 221

Kattenburg 159, 177, 178, 182, 193, 207, 231, 255, 262, 300, 307

Kattenburgerbrug 186

Kattenburgergracht 294

Keizersgracht 106, 110, 112, 115, 116, 134, 142, 148, 164, 174, 179, 181, 235, 304

Keizersgrachtkerk 221

Kerkstraat 197

Kinker 210

Kloveniersburgwal 36, 55, 91, 286, 287

Koestraat 44

Koningsplein 197

Koornmetershuisje 55

Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 289

Kromme Mijdrechtstraat 256

Landswerf 193

Langebrug 50

Lastage 8, 59, 80

Lastageweg 238

Lauriergracht 99

Leidsegracht 107, 150, 277

Levantkade 284

Liedseplein 207

Liedsestraat 7, 45, 197

Lievertje 290–1

Lijnbaansgracht 286, 287

Lindengracht 217, 218, 219

Lindenstraat 217, 218

Lommer 240, 244, 286

Lommertsbrug 50

Maagdenhuis 296

Manège 210

Marken 94, 159

Marnixplatsoen 296

Marnixstraat 209, 279

Merwede Channel 206

Monnickendam 51

Monnikenstraat 44

Montelbaanstoren 58, 59, 161

Montelbaanstraat 238

Muiderstraatweg 279

Munt 51, 55

see also Regulierspoort

Munttoren 58

Museum Amstelkring 143

Naarden 57

“Naatje” see National Monument

Nassau 106

National Monument (“Naatje”) 38, 102, 200

National Theatre see Hollandsche Schouwburg

Nederlandse Bank 202

Nes 44, 149, 298

Nieuwe Brug 17, 43, 101

Nieuwe Dijk 38

Nieuwe Herengracht 160

Nieuwe Keizersgracht 160, 261, 266

Nieuwe Kerk 17, 43, 44, 50, 82, 87, 90, 104, 143, 221

Nieuwe Nonnen ter Lely 73

Nieuwe Prlnsengracht 160

Nieuwe Stadsherberg 206

Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 232, 239

Nieuwe Zijde 17

Nieuwe-Amstel 19

Nieuwendam 237

Nieuwendijk 17, 25, 26, 38, 93, 115, 148, 187

Nieuwezijds Achterburgwal 36, 55

Nieuwezijds Kolk 7, 14, 55

Nieuwezijds Voorburg 149

Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 55, 208, 213, 221, 248, 291, 296

Nieuwmarkt 8, 58, 82, 94, 113, 159, 188, 228, 275, 300–3, 307

Nieuwmarktbuurt 298, 301

Nieuwpoort 59

Noorderkerk 106, 108

Noordermarkt 113, 217, 218, 256

North Sea Canal 206

Olympiaplein 238, 263, 266

Olympic Stadium 296

Onze-Lieve-Vrouwensteeg 38

Oostenburg 159

Oosterpark 210

Oostindisch Huis (East India House) 116, 120

Oostzaan 237

Osdorp 11, 240, 286

Oud Diemen 11

Oude Hoogstraat 116

Oude Kerk 17, 19, 37, 38, 43, 44, 45, 56, 57, 61, 82, 84, 99, 132, 149, 178–9

Oude Schans 59, 232, 301

Oude Waal 35

Oude Zijde 17

Oudekerk bridge 62

Oudekerksplein 7, 30, 179

Oudenbrug 74

Ouder-Amstel 11, 19

Ouderkerk aan de Amstel 12, 15, 59, 93, 105, 124, 156

Ouderkerksplein 230

Ouderzijds Voorburgwal 27, 30, 70, 85, 131, 188

Ouderzijds Wal 35

Oudezijds Achterburgwal 36, 44, 55, 69

Oudezijds Herenlogement 178

Overtoom 45, 86, 208, 304

Palace of People’s Industry see Paleis voor Volksvlijt

Paleis on the Dam 287, 295

see also Town Hall

Paleis voor Volksvlijt 200, 202–4, 220, 226–7, 241

Palmgracht 232, 307

Pampus 150

Papaverweg 235

Paradiso 297

Pijlsteeg 77, 109

Pijp, De 129, 202, 205, 209, 213, 221–3, 234, 300, 307

Pijpenmarkt 213

Plaetse 36, 37, 68, 90

see also Dam

Plantage Kerklaan 273

Plantage Middenlaan 213, 262

Plantage, De 107, 182, 209, 210, 234

Plan-Zuid 234

Polder Hospital 288

Polderweg 263, 266

Prins Hendrikkade 100, 304

Prinsengracht 106, 110, 191, 218, 224

Prinsenhof 188

Prinsenstraat 218

Purmerend 307

Purmermeer 11, 146

Raadhuisstraat 106, 287, 294, 295

Raamgracht 286, 287

Raampoort 216

Ransdorp 31

Rapenburg 94, 159, 166

Rasphuis 171–2

Recht Boomsloot 302

Reguliersgracht 138, 185, 208, 229

Regulierspoort (Reguliers gate) 51, 87

see also Munt

Rembrandt Theatre 244

Rembrandthuis 99, 110

Rembrandtplein 57, 145, 173, 197, 221, 229, 244, 254

see also Botermarkt

Rietlanden 224

Rijksmuseum 95, 127, 200, 210

Rijksverzekeringsbank 244

Rijnstraat 255

Ringdijk 267

Rokin 17, 35, 50, 60, 102, 158, 208, 286, 287

Royal Palace 103

Rozengracht 99, 132, 208, 300

Rozenoord 279

Ruigoord 11

Saint Olaf Chapel 62

Sarphatipark 263

Sarphatistraat 225

Schaepmanstraat 305

Schellingwoude 11

Schermermeer 11

Schiphol 235, 236, 250, 274, 282

Schreierstoren 13, 58, 116, 287

Schulpburg 164

Singel 36, 45, 55, 94, 149, 175, 286

Sint-Agnieten monastery 70, 73

Sint-Antoniespoort (Sint-Antonius gate) 58, 59, 109

Sint-Antoniessluis 302

Sint-Antoniesstraat 301

Sint-Antonisdijk 86, 109

see also Jodenbreestraat

Sint-Luciens monastery 87

Sloten 11, 45

Sloterdijk 13, 85

Slotermeer 240, 307

Sloterplas 240

Slotervaart 240, 286

Spaarndammerbuurt 236, 243

Spaarnwoude 11

Spiegelgracht 208

Spiegelschool 279

Spiegelstraat 127

Spinhuis 171–2

Spui 290, 291

Spuistraat 36

Staatsliedenbuurt 305, 306

Stadhouderskade 106, 146, 213, 230, 279

see also Buitensingel

Stock Exchange see Beurs van Berlage

Swammerdam 209

Swammerdambuurt 205, 234

Swijgt Utrecht 58

Swindenstraat, van 210

Temple K 289

Timber Harbour 243

Town Hall 16, 37, 39, 46, 47, 50, 55, 67–8, 79, 87, 88, 102, 103, 104, 127, 128, 132, 143, 149, 169, 172–2, 185, 187, 188, 194–5, 224, 244

see also Paleis on the Dam

Transvaalbuurt 234

Trippenhuis 91

Tuschinsky Theatre 232

Uilenburg 94, 159

Uilenburgerstraat 232, 239

University of Amsterdam 116, 138, 149, 252, 265

see also Amsterdam Atheneum Illustre

Vecht 146

Victorieplein 235, 238, 263

Vijzelgracht 201, 208

Vinkenstraat 81

Vloonburg 94

see also Waterlooplein

Volewijk 73, 97, 114, 115

Volkspark 217

Vondelpark 109, 202, 210, 229, 296

Vondelstraat 210, 304

Vossius Gymnasium 252

Vreeland 22

Vrije Universiteit 221

Waag (on the Dam) 87, 102, 175, 188

Waag (on the Nieuwmarkt) 58, 59, 228, 287

see also Sint-Antoniespoort

Waalstraat 235

Warmoesgracht 208

Warmoesstraat 7, 17, 27, 37, 38, 81, 94, 99, 126, 191, 218, 220, 278

Watergraaf 146

Watergraafsmeer 185, 187

Waterlooplein 94, 232, 254, 255

see also Vloonburg

Weespeerstraat 9

Weesperplein 207, 225, 263

Weesperpoort 187

Weesperpoortstation 207

Weesperstraat 284, 300

Weesperzijde 205, 213, 233, 251

Westerkerk 106, 108, 110, 133, 295

Westindisch Huis (West India House) 117, 120

Westzaan 85

Weteringplatsoen 279

Weteringschans 279, 304

Weteringstraat 127

Willemsparkweg 210

Willemsstraat 164, 208, 230

see also Franse Pad; Goudsbloemgracht

Willibrordusstraat 202

Windmolenstraat 26

Wittenburg 159, 300

Zandhoek 100

Zaterdagse Brug 217

Zeedijk 11, 26, 231, 275

Zoutsteeg 65, 66

Zuiderkerk 8, 105, 108, 109

Zwanenburg 13

Zwanenburgwal 109

GEERT MAK

Amsterdam

A Brief Life of the City

TRANSLATED FROM THE DUTCH BY
Philipp Blom

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Chapter One

The Beautifully Constructed House

HISTORY BEGINS BENEATH the roots of trees. That is certainly true of Amsterdam, a city that grew up on the IJfn1 and sank, only to rise again.

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